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Whenever curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. But, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary honour.